Once the engine is running properly, you need to establish a system that starts with checking the use of the boat at all times. This test doesn’t take long, but it can be the difference between life and death for a machine. If you are looking for best you can choose Propshaft Repairs.
Daily inspections should include a brief assessment of several important items. First, make sure the fuel tank (if equipped) is full. If you have a 4-stroke engine, check the crankcase oil and top up if necessary. Consult the owner’s manual to determine whether the dipstick should be screwed in or left unscrewed when checking the oil level. Failure to do so may result in an incorrect reading and the motor housing may overload or underload and cause problems.
Make sure you have the correct fuel for your travel plan and make sure the fuel tank vents are open.
With a tilted engine, check for excess oil near the engine… This may indicate a vacuum in the lower crankcase. (Note: In many cases, a little oil film formation is normal. If it seems to be rising, check the oil level at the bottom of the car as described in the owner’s manual) If the seals are not working, take the engine to a repair shop immediately to avoid damaging the electrical equipment.
Make sure the bait is wrapped around the hub of the fan. Ignoring this can cause the belt to tighten around the propeller shaft and cause the gear seal above to malfunction.
If the motor is not bolted to the transom of the boat, make sure the screw clamps are tight. Neglect of this simple test resulted in many engines landing under the sea. Sniff around for patches of oil leaks and fix them if you see them.
If the engine is running, check the “light” or “tracer”, spray or exhaust to make sure the pump is running. If you have all these elements ready, you are ready to use them. There’s only one more.
If you take the boat out of the truck and work in salt water, rinse the cooler with fresh water daily.
Monthly inspections and inspections at sea
In addition to monthly inspections, it is recommended to remove the engine cover and ensure that corrosion is maintained near the cylinder head and thermostat, which can indicate if there is smoke. Also look to improve the corrosion resistance of the connector’s metal lug… Clean and tighten as needed, then apply your supplier’s corrosion protection to all electrical connection lights and colorless wires on exterior boards.
Make sure the throttle and shift control work properly. Lubricate as needed. Gears should not be changed unless the engine is running, so make sure the boat arrives safely and quickly at the dock before checking changes to ensure smooth operation. Next, run the engine with the plug removed and make sure all bolted parts (fuel pump, voltage regulator, coil, etc.) are not loose from their mounts. Make sure all wires and cables are secure and cut through the straps. Next, if your engine has an engine-mounted oil strainer, check for water.
The water separates from the oil and falls to the bottom of the filter and is easily visible as the color is transparent to the oil/oil mixture above. If you find water, remove the filter and drain the water. Before replacing the housing by cleaning and reassembling the strainer, make sure the O-rings are in place and re-inspect this assembly for oil leaks after replacing the strainer housing. Apply the eye primer oil until the filter/water filter is filled with oil and check for the oil leak.
Check for corrosion in the thermostat on top of the cylinder head or engine block.
Inspect all joints for corrosion
Next, you need to check the condition of the sacrificed zinc anode connected to the motor. Check the zinc on the bottom of the main engine mounting brackets. There may be a zinc trim just behind the fan or a small amount of zinc installed in the vent plate. Replace zinc with more than half corroded. In some places the zinc can melt very quickly, and the only thing that can melt is the engine when the zinc is gone.
Finally, check the motor battery and charge the cells as needed.
Periodic inspections and surveillance at sea
Let’s first define the word “season”. The way I’m applying here means every three months or every cruise, whichever comes first. This means once a year, or however, if you can sail for more than three months, perform inspection and inspection procedures at least once every three months, or every 50-75 working hours. However, if you live in an area where boating lasts less than 3 months or 75 hours, consider these “seasonal” checks as an annual check.
3 month repair service (or seasonal)
Periodic inspections are much more informative and some jobs may require the expertise of your local dealer, but with some specialization you can perform all of the tasks below.
Fuel Details…All engine fuel points should be filled with fresh oil as recommended by the manufacturer for the specific engine. Continue draining the oil until all oil and water are gone. It’s brittle, so if you see old stuff around the tip, wipe it off with a rag.
Propeller Inspection… First make sure the electric motor is not running by sensing electrical current from the outlet. Then remove the fan and inspect it for each fishing line around the rod. If you find them, cut them all. Check the fan for nicks, burrs, and lack of flex in the fan. If the scratches are small, you can clean them with a cloth.
Inspect the propeller hub for any damage to the vulcanized rubber and the rubber attachment to the splined hub. A disaster seen here could be a problem for the next season. If this hub is damaged, you will need to replace the hub or replace it with a new one. If in doubt, let the seller make the final decision. I don’t want to change it unless absolutely necessary.
If all is well here, wipe down the fan to remove the old oil and apply a thin layer of non-recommended water to the shaft. Do not reinstall the propellers yet. The motor will work to flush the cooling air and the motor should not run out of water with the fan due to the sharpness of the tooth vortex.
However, when reinstalling the fan, remember to replace the cotter pin on the fan if the motor is equipped with a fan. If your engine uses a Nylock self-locking propeller nut, these nuts can only be used once and must be replaced.
Gearcase Oil Change… The next step in seasonal maintenance is to change the gearcase oil. In most outboard motors, the gear case has two screw caps on the side of the gear case. However, some motors have a drain and fill screw on the hub gear in front of the fan. In this case, access is only possible with the dismantling machine.